Priming miniatures

[imported_Koen DS]

Up till now I've always used a first layer of thinned down (about half/half) black enamel paint to prime my figures, and covered that with a second layer of slightly thinned down black acrylic paint.

The reason for the first layer of enamel paint is that acrylics seem not to cover well on bare metal - I was told this may have to do with greasy spots remaining from the casting process. Enamels don't have the problem, as the thinner dissolves the grease.

How do you guys solve this, and are there any other ways that people prime.

I never use spray cans, as these never completely cover the figures, and so I prefer to hand prime.

Cheers,
Koen

[ September 22, 2003, 10:19: Message edited by: Koen DS ]

[Bill Sumruld]

Try washing the figures with a mild detergent in warm water first.

[GAZMAN]

you shouldn't see grease on metal figs - on plastics maybe, but in todays cost driven plastic moulding world spray on mould release is frowned upon.

The usual mould release for metal figs is talc.
I always use spray as brushing just doesn't seem to get to all the places a spray can can.
I guess i am brush lazy. I use acrlic white, black or brown spray undercoat.

GAZMAN

[Badger]

I've tried both black and white as primer colors, and both hide too much of the detail for my aging eyes (I fear my next glasses prescription will be for bifocals...). Grey works very nicely, I've found (at Basil's suggestion).

I use spray enamel, and find the resulting loss of casting detail (at least at 15mm scale) marginal. I'm certainly not a good enough painter to do anything with the slight detail loss anyway. You just need to (a) take it easy with the spray paint, and (b) remember that some of the detail apparently lost when you spray reappears once the primer is dry.

[rudynelson]

Badger has stated many of my thoughts from changing from white/black to gray primer for the eyes to the use of spray over brush. Brush prime in 15mm does seem heavy and results in the loss of detail. I spray prime from four directions with the initial spray then after the painting sticks dry, I lay them down and spray the hard to reach areas front and back. The six way technique seems to cover the castings.

[ September 24, 2003, 10:14: Message edited by: rudynelson ]

[konstantinius]

I usually prime white, then paint the basic colors, then wash with black, then drybrush. I found that just white is too light and just black is too dark. I haven;t try gray yet.
In order to prime better, since I only use spray, I mount my 15mm on tongue depressor sticks, 4 per stick, 3 if mounted. This way I can hit them all around with the primer. It's been working pretty well for me.

[imported_Koen DS]

What I'm most curious about is how people solve the issue with the greasy spots, as that's my main issue...

Cheers,
Koen

[Badger]

Originally posted by Koen DS:
What I'm most curious about is how people solve the issue with the greasy spots...Haswn't been an issue for me. I wash my plastics in dish and laundry detergent twice as a cure for that.

Mind you, I haven't gotten around to then actually PAINTING any of the plastics yet! :D

[konstantinius]

You shouldn't encounter greasy spots on lead figs, especially after you rinse them in soapy water and let dry. After that the spray primer that I use sticks right on, nice and clear. What brands of enamels and acrylics are you using?

[imported_Koen DS]

I'll try rising them in the dish water then, the wife will surely love that ;)

Only for priming I use Humbrol or Revell Balck Enamel. But I dislike the smell, and so does my wife, so I need to prime in the garage, which is another reason why I want to be able to prime with acrylics...

For painting I mostly use Vallejo acrylics (the normal range and the new wargame range), but also some games workshop acrylics (not as good as Vallejo, but easy to find) and some Humbrol acrylics.

Cheers,
Koen

[Paul A. Hannah]

I use "Floquil Base White" spray primer. It's oil-based; although, I paint with water-based acrylics. I shake the heck out of the can first, and even warm the can in a couple inches of hot water in the sink for a few moments before spraying. This seems to ensure a truly flat finish for the primer.

It really stinks, so I only prime outside. I can do this year-round here in Seattle, since we never really get winter weather here. :(

As is typical, I suppose, I apply 2-3 light coats of primer, allowing 10-20 minutes between applications. I always allow figures to dry overnight before starting to paint them.

[imported_Koen DS]

Triend washing my corvus belli minis in hot dishwater, then handprimed them with (both undiluted and diluted) black GW acrylics. Did not work completely well, I keep getting small spots (1 to 3mm in diameter) that remain uncovered, ar that appear covered, and after drying turn out not to be covered.

I did not ever have this problem while using enamels.

Any clues, anyone?

Cheers,
Koen

[David Crenshaw]

I've been painting lead for twenty years, and used to soak them in venegar to clean off the oxidation, then dry them and finally prime them, BUT either I've just gotten lazy or it's simply not necessary. Ive been spraying gray primer directly onto unwashed lead lately, and have never had problems with the primer not sticking. I use ACE hardware's brand of gray primer and I love it. It doesn't run into the crevices, dries extremely fast, nor do I think it is so thick that it obscures any detail. Give it a try.

David smile.gif

[derek]

Hullo
I clean all flash and mould lines. Then I spray paint with a black hobby spray paint. Usually Humbrol as it is the easiest to get here. I leave the figures to dry for a long time. I fill in any spots the spray has missed by hand with Coat d'arms acrylic paint from Gladiator.
Kind Regards
Derek

[Cremorn]

Originally posted by Koen DS:
I keep getting small spots (1 to 3mm in diameter) that remain uncovered, ar that appear covered, and after drying turn out not to be covered.
Koen I am new to metal from plastics. I don't clean the figures. I base with Tamiya Flat Black diluted with tap water. Sticks like s*** to a blanket, as they say. It used to be more of an issue with plastic, and I am enjoying the speed and freedom of working this way.

Last night I was putting the kids down, I said "I'll be back in a minute ok?" I ran to my based Ps, hit them with the black, ran back for more tucking in, then when I was back at the Ps after a few minutes they were dry and ready to paint.

I think the point about acrylics is that they are easy to thin and really effective thinned. Because of this your pigment really really sticks hard. The only danger then is that your paint is so thin it can rub away from handling - so you need some method of fixing it (can of Testors dullcote, pot of Humbrol Acrylic Satin Varnish, Tamiya Clear Matt (you have to mix this one with something!! etc.))

Thin paint on black is pretty weak looking of course. If you hit the high points with a rough dry brush with white, then use thin colours, you get bright colour on top and weak colour in the recesses where the black undercoat is still dominant.

I am using a bottle of Sepia ink from the art supplier with great success for all my washes.

These ideas are all copied from the best painting article ever written:
http://miniatures.de/html/int/fastpaint.html
The way I paint is greatly modified now, but this article is still the business.

Hope some of that made sense,
Richard.

[Cremorn]

Originally posted by Koen DS:

Any clues, anyone?
Cheers,
Koen Wash your hands! :)