Basing in the UK

[Jonnyboy9]

How do UK wargamers base their figures. What material do you use ? What glue ? Do you paint & then add flock ?

UK gamers only as often US descriptions include references to proprietary brands that we just don't have over here.... If you non-UK guys can help at all then please do...

Thanks for your help.

[GAZMAN]

1.5mm plywood, cut to size.
Painted black.
Depending on where the army comes from the additon of various flock mixes.
Then the addition of details such as long grass, tree stumps, big rocks and dead things or discarded weapons and shields etc.

Flock mix for green type bases - woodland scenics green flock, gaugemaster dark green foamy flock, verlinden static grass in light green, bits of granite chips, model railway ballast, cat litter and some sand.

Si2

[Paul A. Hannah]

Originally posted by Phillip II:
If you non-UK guys can help at all then please do...I base all my figures (15mm) on thin, hard-pressed cardboard of the type used for matting framed pictures.

For years, I had been buying this, but just recently learned that if I ask nicely, the folks at the local frame-it shop will gladly provide me with large scraps of this material that would otherwise go out in the recycle bin.

My routine is a rather tedious process of gluing on the painted figures (with white glue) and applying spackle/plaster and bits of gravel and rock. When dry, I stain it with a wash of a suitable dirt/mud color, and then, again, when dry, I drybrush a light, buff color over it. Next, I add bits of tall grass and then a mottled application of a couple flocking colors over some -but not all- of the stand, using a fairly thick green paint, or other color, as appropriate. Finally, I may add a small scrub or bush.

I'll do several stands at a time, but it probably averages out to 10-minutes per stand. :( As I say, it's tedious, but worth it, I think. At least, it helps to dress up stands of figures I had painted ages ago smile.gif , as seen below:

http://www.nhmgs.org/gallery/gallery_images/dacians_01.jpg

[ September 09, 2003, 09:52: Message edited by: Paul A. Hannah ]

[Redwald]

I use a card base (I stick two sheets of card together, each just over 0.5mm- this seems to stop excessive warping) The figures are stuck down with PVA glue, the white woodworking stuff. Or you can use Hotmelt. I paint the base with a thick layer of emulsion (a pastel shade Dulux Matchpot, silk or matt, it doesnt matter.). Next step is to scatter fine sand onto the paint and leave to dry. Repeat the paint/sand to get a good coverage and disguise the figure bases. A coat of thinned pva seals the sand in place. I then apply a couple of coats of green poster paint (Galt toys, for no other reason than it was cheap, in a large bottle, and I liked the shade of green!). Finally finish with a light colour dry brushing. I use "inscribe" wheat acrylic

Brian

[imported_adsarf]

Here's a simpler system.

I base all figures on cardboard (usually the backing from A4 refill packs picked up at work, but the piece which comes as wrapping with my wife's organic choclate is better and available to me in fairly significant quantities) using PVA (kid's craft) glue *prior* to undercoating the figures with black spray primer. I've never understood why people base figures on temporary bases for painting and then rebase them for the rules - unless they're genuinely very good painters.

Having then painted the figures, I coat the base in a thin layer of more PVA, dip in flock, shake off the excess and leave to dry. On average this takes about 30 seconds per base.

I then varnsih figure and base together with matt spray varnish.

In practice I have little trouble with warping (as an issue its about on a level with my inability to measure and cut neat cardboard rectangles) or flock coming off the base. The results are significantly better than just painting the base.

This method is quick, easy, cheap and simple. It requires no skill whatsoever. If you're a great painter its worth doing more but if, like me, you aim for adequacy this is it.

[Janus]

Paul, how did you do the dry grass in on the base shown from your link?

Whenever I try to glue grass it just falls apart, leaving something that doesn´t look as grass at all. :(

Regards/

Daniel

[Paul A. Hannah]

Originally posted by Janus:
Paul, how did you do the dry grass in on the base shown from your link? Do you mean the bits of yellow TALL grass on the stands, Daniel?

If so, first, I do this before I apply the grass flocking. I add a drop of white glue where I want the tall grass/weeds, and while the glue is starting to dry --and that may be the key-- I cut off a bit of the tall grass material. With knife or scissors, I get a very straight cut at the bottom of the grass, and then I stick it into the glue. If it starts to flop over, or spread open too much, I'll reshape the tall grass to a desired look bit with my fingers or a pair of tweezers.

(If you cant find this tall grass product where you are, e-mail me offlist at PAHannah@aol.com and I'll send you a pinch or two of it. A little bit goes a long way.)

[ September 09, 2003, 09:53: Message edited by: Paul A. Hannah ]

[Attila the Hungry]

I like using an adhesive product called Hob-E-Tac (by Woodlands Scenics :confused: ) and cheap paint brush bristles (tan) to simulate tall field grass. I put 2-3 drops of the stuff in various places on my bases. I let it set-up for perhaps 3 minutes and then add a straight clump of bristles about 20mm high. Then I add grass to the flat part of the base. It looks great to have a psiloi archer aiming his bow between the large stalks of grass. I use the masonite/magnet backed basing material. Have fuan!

[Janus]

Thanks for the tips. smile.gif

I think that my misstake was that I didn´t let the glue dry at all when I made my trials, so it didn´t provide enough rigidity. And even more thanks for your kind offer Paul, but it won´t be necissary. I have some sisal-rope that I think will do just fine now.. smile.gif

/Daniel

[Attila the Hungry]

Janus. Sisal rope eh? I'll try it. I bet it would make great looking vines.

[Janus]

Yes, I soak it in water to get a bit sraighter strands for the grass. But unsoaked it might work really well as wines...

/Daniel

[GAZMAN]

I leave my bases in the box of flock overnight, so that the glue dries and catches all those loose bits that may fall off if you tap or blow the excess off first.
For tall grass I use cheap paint brushes from the UK Costcutters type shops - 99p for a pack of five rather ropey 'artisits' brushes. Gives me enough tall grass for at least one 25mm army.
Also good with 15mms - here are some PoTN psiloi http://www.gazclub.co.uk/images/ps.jpg with my basing technique, notice the cat litter 'rocks' - I prefer plywood as a base as it never warps and is easier to cut than thick card- just score and snap, then run the edge along a bit of sand paper to tidy.
I like to add bits of stuff form the garden too, tree stumps are a favourite on Ps bases...
Have some fun experimenting anyway!!
Si2

[derek]

Hullo
I'm going off the thread here.
Which range of PotN are the psiloi from ?
Very nice indeed.
Kind Regards
Derek

[Ed Dillon]

Originally posted by adsarf:
I've never understood why people base figures on temporary bases for painting and then rebase them for the rules - unless they're genuinely very good painters.
I do it because I am a genuinely very bad painter. I need all of the help that I can get and that includes having plenty of space to work.
Ed

[GAZMAN]

The psiloi are PoTN Goth archers, code GOTH3.
Suitable for quite a few armies.
I am 3/4s of the way through doing II/67b Ostrogoth army - six knights and six psiloi, what a combo!
GAZMAN

[derek]

Hullo GAZMAN
Thank you. I already have a generic 15mm Goth army (Gladiator & Irregular characterised by large difference in physical size between the figures). PotN should fall in-between in size.
Kind Regards
Derek

[ September 12, 2003, 14:07: Message edited by: derek ]

[Ed Dillon]

Originally posted by GAZMAN:
The psiloi are PoTN Goth archers, code GOTH3.
Suitable for quite a few armies.
I am 3/4s of the way through doing II/67b Ostrogoth army - six knights and six psiloi, what a combo!
GAZMAN GAZMAN, we must think alike on this. I just got in an Ostrogoth army from PotN this week. I like the idea of screening the Kn with the Ps, or vice versa. I look forward to reports of your victories. BTW, the lead (actually lead-free) really is quite nice.
Ed

[ September 12, 2003, 22:06: Message edited by: Ed Dillon ]

[Rob Draper]

For basing 15mm DBA armies I use Peter Pigs 40x30mm plastic bases cut to 15 or 20mm for foot troops. I paint my minis temporarily mounted on doorknobs and they are varnished before basing. Once stuck down to the base I build up the level to around the figures feet with ordinary household filler (plaster-type stuff from Wilkos). A quick dab around the feet with a black wash makes a neater job and then I paint the whole base with Coat d'Armes Brushscape paint (paint with sand already in it) muddy green for dark ages, dark sand for hellenistics. A quick dry-brush with yellow (on green) or white (on sand) acrylic, a dab of varnish and it's done.

[imported_Richard Lee]

For bases I use the cardboard from packets of Lindt chocolate.

For 15 mm armies I have been using Basetex from Colour Party to decorate the bases. (Basetex is a mixture of sand and textured paint.) I usually use green Basetex which I dry-brush yellow when dry.

Fairly soon I intend to try sand and static grass on new 15 mm armies. What people do is cover the base with PVA glue (I think Americans call it "white glue") and dip it into sand. (One of my friends uses "Play Sand", probably from Wickes, but I will use builder's sand.) When the glue has dried, put blotches of PVA on and dip it into static grass. Finally, when that glue has dried, paint diluted PVA on to the base to stop it dripping static grass or sand.

With 6 mm armies I am now covering the whole base with a layer of PVA, putting the painted figures on. While the PVA is still wet I cover the base with flock. After leaving the base to dry over night I shake the surplus flock off then coat with diluted PVA and allow it to dry.

[GAZMAN]

I know it's mentioning the nasty profit mongers - but if you are into 15mm and want some nice 20mm deep bases, check out the GW warmaster bases.
These are injection moulded plastic with a nice chamfered edge and for GW are relatively cheap. CHeaper than a whole load of chocolate bars, but probably not as enjoyable - and who's wife would ever object to 'damn I have all this chocolate let over after having to base up my toy soldiers, what can I do with it?? Would you like to dispose of it for me dear?'
Si2

[Grahamthemole]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Richard Lee:
[QB] For bases I use the cardboard from packets of Lindt chocolate.

For 15 mm armies I have been using Basetex from Colour Party to decorate the bases. (Basetex is a mixture of sand and textured paint.) I usually use green Basetex which I dry-brush yellow when dry.

I PVA sand onto my bases and paint brown, then dry brush sand over it. When dry I add patches of PVA and add flock on top. Occaisionally I'll add rocks or tree stumps etc..

Fairly soon I intend to try sand and static grass on new 15 mm armies. What people do is cover the base with PVA glue (I think Americans call it "white glue") and dip it into sand. (One of my friends uses "Play Sand", probably from Wickes, but I will use builder's sand.) When the glue has dried, put blotches of PVA on and dip it into static grass. Finally, when that glue has dried, paint diluted PVA on to the base to stop it dripping static grass or sand.

For 15mm I use "Chinchilla" sand from the pet shop, it's the same stuff that Games Workshop sells but it is much cheaper at the pet shop. Interestingly if you need lots of it it is even cheaper at builders merchants where it is called "silver sand"- so much cheaper in fact then I think if you bought it direct from the manufaturers by the lorry load it might even be free...(a joke)

Cheers,
Graham.

[imported_Koen DS]

I live by the beach, I think I'll have a look there for some free sand ;)

Up till now I've always been using some sort of wall filler to build up my bases, but I'm looking for an easier alternative to base double or triple ranked6mm or double ranked 15mm 7YW figures I'm painting for a friend. It's a pain to get the filler in between the ranks.
I guess glueing the figures to the base, then covering the base with PVA and putting them in some sand overnight, then painting and drybrushing, then adding some flock patches will do the trick.

Cheers,
Koen

[Grahamthemole]

Up till now I've always been using some sort of wall filler to build up my bases, but I'm looking for an easier alternative to base double or triple ranked6mm or double ranked 15mm 7YW figures I'm painting for a friend. It's a pain to get the filler in between the ranks.
I guess glueing the figures to the base, then covering the base with PVA and putting them in some sand overnight, then painting and drybrushing, then adding some flock patches will do the trick.

Cheers,
Koen [/QB][/QUOTE]

I don't find it necessary to leave the figures in the sand or flock overnight, simply press the sand or flock into place when applying it. Also try adding a little water to the glue as well this seems to make it "soak" into the sand or flock better and apparently- so my woodworking friends tell me makes the joins stronger.

Graham

[GAZMAN]

If you don't leave the bases in overnight to dry be careful not to tap off the excess or blow it away. Let it sit untill dry before you do the tapping, blowing or dusting stuff.
I have a make up brush that I use to dust off flock before final matt coating with spray varnish.
The Brush came in a set for 99p (75c) and the holder was a superb clear plastic dome ideal for diorama display - keep an eye out in the cur price type shops for them.
S

[imported_Koen DS]

Originally posted by Grahamthemole:
Also try adding a little water to the glue as well this seems to make it "soak" into the sand or flock better and apparently- so my woodworking friends tell me makes the joins stronger.I always thin the white glue with water, as this not only strengthens the bond, but also makes it easier to apply.

Cheers,
Koen

[imported_Koen DS]

Gazman - you're the guy connected to Gripping Beast, right? You joining them on the trip to the convention in Antwerp (Crisis 2003) on 8/11?

Cheers,
Koen

[GAZMAN]

Only connected by a strange bond of friendship and cakes.
Would love to go to Antwerp though!
Might consult the CEO (wife)

Simon

[GAZMAN]

I always thin the white glue with water, as this not only strengthens the bond, but also makes it easier to apply.

Cheers,
Koen little tip I learnt from model railway ballasting is a drip or two of washing up liquid means it soaks in better too, kills the surface tension.
S

[imported_Koen DS]

Gazman,

If you do make it over, come round to our table, we'll be doing a Borodino refight (our group's called the Stipsicz Hussars).

Cheers,
Koen